MK3Hi, my name is Jo Prusa and Prusa i3 (i3 stands for the third iteration of the design) is my latest design for 3D printers. There are countless variations of this design and it became a staple of 3D printing with hundreds of thousands units worldwide. According to 3DHubs i3 is the #1 3D printer on the planet. It’s open functional design allows for quick maintenance. You can build a simple one for couple hundred dollars or you can chip in more and get the state of the art 3D printer, it’s all up to you.

In 2012 I founded Prusa Research, a 3D printing company based in Prague, Czech Republic. Under the brand Original Prusa i3, we started to produce 3D printers to offer makers from around the word affordable, accessible and reliable open-source 3D printing solution. Back then, it was a one-man startup. Today, Prusa Research grows up to a 200+ team and we are shipping more than 6000 Original Prusa i3 printers per month to over 135 countries directly from Prague.

The Original Prusa i3 MK3 is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2/S 3D printer. MK2S is the winner of the 3D Printer Shootout 2017 and 2018 in prestigious MAKE: Magazine and for more than a year, it’s the best desktop 3D printer according to Trends. MK2S is also The Best 3D Printer for 2018 in “Workhorse” category on Guide with score 9.3 (the highest rated printer overall).


Don’t forget to check my Youtube channel, where I regularly post troubleshooting videos, user guides, and other interesting videos.


One of the most popular features of Original Prusa i3 concept is upgradability. If you buy our 3D printer, you can upgrade it later to the new version, so you don’t need to buy the whole new model every two years as you get used to for example with your phone or laptop. 🙂

Upgrades are a great way not only for saving money, but also to learn about the construction of the printer’s hardware. A few years ago there was the Original Prusa i3 3mm which was upgradable to the Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75mm (MK1). This printer can become MK2/S thanks to the next big upgrade and then you can go even for the latest MK3 (or MK2.5 if you wish).

Ready for the Multi Material

Original Prusa i3 MK3 Multi Material is the unique option to print with up to 4 different materials simultaneously. The use of up to 4 material feeders with only one hotend makes the solution calibration free and much easier to use than currently available systems.

With Multi Material upgrade you can easily use one of the materials as water-soluble supports. To be more efficient with expensive soluble filament you can also print water-soluble interface supports.



Useful links

Tips & tricks


55 thoughts on “Prusa i3 3D printer

  1. Quisiera saber donde puedo conseguir los planos del marco para construirme una Prusa 3 i
    en acrilico o en acero soy de Montevideo – Uruguay, aqui no he conseguido marcos hechos y traerlos del exterior se me encarecen mucho si consigo el croquis en archivo STL, lo puedo mandar a plotear en acrilico o a cortar en acero por laser.

    Espero respuesta gracias.


    Heber Lago

  2. Does it need to be used with a 3mm filament? In my country (Chile) its hard to get, and it’ll be a lot easier if i can install the regular 1.75mm filament.

  3. where are the stl files located for Prusa I3 1.75mm high quality printer?
    love this machine but I have to print parts to fix it

  4. 2 thngs: Would it be possible to swap out the extruder nozzle with a custom made blu ray for laser cutting etc? And, please make said item and take my money.

  5. Received my i3 kit Thursday. Very nice quality, impressive build manual, though I preferred the on line version with bigger writing! Y belt was a bit too short but everything else excellent. Got a new belt locally so it was printing straight away. The settings for Slic3r are spot on, great prints! The kids love it too, queuing up with things to print! Thank you for sparing me the frustration usually associated with setting up a 3D printer.
    Andrew Young

  6. So, I’m 90% sold on the Prusa i3 as my first 3d printer. I am curious about how the quality of the individual parts effects the price. There are other “Prusa” model printers out there for half the price. What makes this a better printer than other Prusa based repraps? Is there a noticeable difference in the print quality of a cheaper reprap vs the Prusa i3?

    • It is easy, the others don’t have knock off electronics (often removing safety/over temp/ high current parts replacing them with nothing or lower rated parts), they don’t actually Innovate, they just copy (this is the company that started the i3 design), a genuine e3d (E3d knows more about melting plastics than any hot end maker, every machining step has a purpose, the knock offs skip steps), the mechanical parts are made with care ( you can buy cheap kits that fall apart), and automatic bed leveling (a god send)

  7. Where can I get the firmware to change hot end max temperature to at list 275C?
    I can’t get satisfying quality with printing ABS at 255C and on 260C I get an error.
    What is the allowed max temperature for hot end (I’ve got an official prusa i3 kit 2 month ago)
    Best regards

  8. Mr Prusa:

    I would like to suggest some possibly too expensive, but possibly VERY valuable additions to your machine:

    1)FRAME: use structural aluminum tube – This will provide greater stability AND the depth (vs current “flat” profile to add a SECOND system and print head.

    2)ELIMINATE the belt system! Instead use a stepper to turn a precision screw rod, possibly ball-race rod on x&y. Belts stretch and limit accuracy -even the best 2-D printers cannot match the quality offered by even the higher amateur digital cameras! It’s obsolete technology – worked for dot-matrix Epson RX-80s of the 1980s. It does NOT work on the company’s best artists’ printers. And the change is so simple!

    Put a hole mounted with the best bearing that makes sense from a cost/quality standpoint in the point carrier. directly couple 1 end to stepper motor, the other end to a bearing support end. It’s an even easier conversion for the y platform. Nothing that WILL eventually stretch. Nothing that limits accuracy by the number of teeth in gear/belt system.
    I suggest supporting Y mover system on a pair of parallel rod-on-U-shaped channel on either side of the precision screw rod.

    While changes are underway, improve the screws moving the platform on the Z-axis. Dump plastic for metal, allowing higher heat materials – better excess heat removal AND overall greater accuracy and stability.

    Offer the unit in various sizes, with a build volume of up to 1/2 cubic meter.

    Don’t discontinue the current system (aside from better X-transport. A beefed up system will at the least double the price of the current best-bang-for-buck machine on the market.

    The end of the hot point, as I said before, also is a place for adding an inexpensive improvement that will slow printing while improving accuracy – cut the minimum nozzle diameter by at least 50% – While less plastic can be deposited per pass, the accuracy should be radically improved.

    Lastly, a rather radical idea for the entire system: WHY do all plastic extruders lay down material via vector drawing? Just because the Makerbot Cupcake did? WHY NOT use the system used in almost every 2D printer today – give up the old plotter philosophy and lay each layer down as pattern of dots! For strength it may be a good idea to lay down the first layer with the X drive making the constant back and forth sweep while the Y platform moves only when a line is completed. The second pass would reverse the prder with the Y platform moving front to back, and the x platform moving a single line when the work is done. hyper-advanced models might even replace te square platform with a disk, allowing any degree of rotation between layers.

    Last idea – constant complaints about cost of material. Shredded soda bottles (after a thorough washing) dropped through a simplified hot point with the diameter of desired input could supply an inexpensive supply of PET filament – it might require careful cooling fans on the way down and manual attachment to an empty spool, but the material is free aside from the labor of cleaning and removing the hot-glue label attachment used on most 2-liter bottles. cheap, ugly, imperfect except for prototyping – and failures are quickly turned into fresh prototype material.

    My experience with 3D printing is VERY limited, and I only hope I have not simply wasted your time.

    However, if any of these systems prove useful, I, running on a very small salary, would appreciate being handed a unit integrating my obviosly open-source ideas for prototype testing.

    meanwhile, once I pay off my new-build last-10-years computer system (spend up front, avoid replacing every year or 2) my next purchase will be a current-model PRUSA printer, while I play around with some ideas for the Next Project – a camera/rotating platform/raise/lower mechanism, with luck and some friends to help, a device for duplicating complex-shaped items we can hold in our hands, but cannot describe in terms of complex shape.

    Now if I could only convince Epson to dump the toothed belts that limit its printers and become one of their testers too …(dream on, something might even work out)

  9. when I plug my computer into the printer they can’t find each other. I have downloaded the drivers , but nothing has happened. what did I do wrong. I can print fine from the sd card but I just can’t seem to connect to print direct. please give me some advice

    • Hi Ron,
      try to completely uninstall the drivers, reboot system and install it again with admin rights. I suggest to print using SD card, because the computer can go to sleep, the app can crash, the connection can get lost. It is much safer to use SD card.

  10. Love my new printer, thank you Mr Prusa for a awsome product. With alittle work my abs prints stick like glue. Im looking forward to new and exciting products in the future, keep up the good work and thank you again

  11. Will there be a multimaterial upgrade to the MK3 coming soon? I’m excited about the upgrades you’ve added for the MK3 but am not sure about it just yet.

  12. I know you said a multi material version of the MK3 will be coming shortly., but …

    Would you put up a pre order for a fully assembled multi material MK3 please. I want to be one of the first one’s in the queue!

  13. Hello Accounts Receivable Dept.,

    Our school district would like to order the 3 D Printer from your company but would like someone to email us back so that we can provide your company with our Oakland Unified School District Vendor packet, so that our teachers can order from your company. I look forward to hearing from you soon in regards to this matter. Thank you in advance.

  14. Hi guys, one questions because it is never mentionend in the text. I ask this question because I’m new to Prusa printer. Is there an auto bed leveling function included in the printer ? Will it be leveled before each print ? Would be nice to hear from you soon. Kind regards HJ Meyer

    • Hi Hans,
      auto bed levelling is available on all currently sold printers from Prusa Research. Namely, it is MK3/MK2S as well as Multi Material upgrade.

  15. I’m just starting to learn about the 3d printers, and see there is a great potential to make a business out of it… I bought a 3d scanner from Apple that can attach to their iPAD. My question is if I purchase the Prusa i3 MK3 will I be able to transport my 3d scanner pictures to the 3d printer ?

    • Hi Robert,
      it should be possible, but you need to obtain a file with “.stl” extension, which needs to be prepared (sliced) in our software Slic3r PE or PrusaControl ( The process of slicing is quite easy, in PrusaControl it is just a few clicks 😉

    • Yes, we actually have a couple of employees that prefer Rhino as they go-to modeling software.
      Anything that can export STL works fine 🙂

  16. Can I please have the replacement part # for the 4 steel tubes that shape the filament for doing retractions on the multi material upgrade I seemed to have lost one and it did not come with extras.

  17. Excellent Blog! I am hoping the same best work from you in the future as well. I wanted to thank you for this websites!

  18. Hi. I have bought your printer. I’d like to take your advice. But i have problem with English. Do you have tranclate from Russian. After we will trying speak each other.

  19. Hello, Accounts Receivable Dept.,

    Our school district would like to order the 3 D Printer from your company but would like someone to reply to our email as we can provide your company with our Vendor packet so that our teachers can order from you. I look forward to hearing from you soon in regards to this matter.
    Thanks & Regards

  20. Hello
    Can I successfully print ABS on the open Prusa printer? I heard open printers are hard for ABS and better for PLA

    • Hi Igor,
      you can read more about materials here:
      Yes, you can print ABS on Prusa printer with enclosure it is better, also the model has to be created with thermal shrinkage of ABS in mind. I recommend to also consider PETG, which has similar properties but is easier to print from.

  21. Hello,
    Could you please describe which materials are best and worst for Prusa printers in case of quality and scrap. I heard ABS better works with closed printers

  22. Hi. This message is also for Prusa engineers, please watch the following video regarding MMU2 issues that can be solved using some very good customer’s solutions:
    Unless you have already made these changes on the last MK3/MMU2 it seems that it could improve your products. Best regards.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *